John Bicknell Auden: The Trailblazer Who First Crossed Auden Col Pass

John Bicknell Auden (14 December 1903 – 21 January 1991) was an English geologist, explorer, and a remarkable figure in the annals of Himalayan exploration. As the elder brother of the celebrated poet W. H. Auden, John carved his own path to fame through his pioneering work in geology and his unyielding spirit of adventure. During his tenure with the Geological Survey of India and later the Food and Agriculture Organization, Auden made significant contributions to our understanding of the Himalayan strata, including groundbreaking research on the Krol Belt and groundwater systems. However, one of his most enduring legacies lies in the discovery of the Auden Col Pass—a daring expedition that cemented his name among the legends of exploration.

The Discovery of Auden Col Pass: A Journey Through the Unknown (1935)

In the summer of 1935, a young and ambitious John Bicknell Auden embarked on an expedition that would forever change the course of Himalayan exploration. As a geologist with the Geological Survey of India, Auden’s mission was to map the uncharted regions of the Garhwal Himalayas—a land shrouded in glacial mysteries and dominated by peaks that had defied even the most intrepid adventurers.

The journey began in Uttarkashi, a picturesque town nestled in the heart of the Himalayas. Accompanied by mountaineering trek leader named Soby Negi, and fellow geologist Harold Mason, Auden set his sights on a rumored high pass linking the Rudugaira Glacier to the Bhilangana Valley. Local lore described the pass as a mythical gateway fraught with avalanches and fierce storms—a challenge only the bravest could undertake.

Into the Wild: The Ascent to the Unknown

“Every legend has a seed of truth,” Auden wrote in his journal. With this belief, the team ventured beyond the known trails. The ascent from the Rudugaira Valley was a grueling test of endurance. Towering walls of ice and imposing cliffs flanked their path, forcing the team to carve their way forward with ice axes and crampons. The biting winds and thin air at over 5,400 meters turned every step into an ordeal, but Auden’s resolve remained unshaken.

After days of relentless effort, the team reached the head of the Rudugaira Glacier. Before them rose a sheer wall of ice crowned by a jagged ridge piercing the heavens. Trek leader Soby, gazing at the formidable barrier, remarked, “If this is the pass, sahib, it is like a doorway to heaven—but only the brave will cross it.”

Auden and Mason debated the risks. The ridge’s unstable cornices and the crevasse-riddled glacier below posed immense danger. Yet, Auden’s adventurous spirit prevailed. “If we turn back now, we’ll leave this mystery unsolved,” he declared. “Let’s see what lies beyond.”

The Final Push and the Revelation Beyond

The ascent to the ridge proved to be the expedition’s most perilous challenge. Using ropes and pitons, the team painstakingly made their way upward. At one harrowing moment, an ice bridge collapsed under Mason’s feet, leaving him dangling over a deep crevasse. Quick thinking and teamwork—spearheaded by Auden and Negi—averted disaster, but the incident underscored the treacherous nature of their quest.

Finally, on a crisp morning in late August, the team crested the ridge. What lay before them was a sight so breathtaking that even Auden, a man deeply rooted in science, was rendered speechless. The Bhilangana Valley unfolded like a green carpet far below, framed by the majestic peaks of the Gangotri group. Sunlight danced across the icy expanse, creating a kaleidoscope of colors that seemed almost otherworldly.

That evening, Auden penned his thoughts in his journal: “Today, we crossed into the unknown. This pass, carved by nature’s relentless hand, is a testament to the raw beauty and power of the Himalayas. It shall be named Auden Col, not for personal glory, but as a reminder of the courage and curiosity that drive us to explore.”

The Legacy of Auden Col

The descent into the Bhilangana Valley was fraught with challenges, but the discovery of the pass invigorated the team. Upon their return to Uttarkashi, news of their achievement spread rapidly. Auden was lauded by the scientific community, and the pass was officially named Auden Col, immortalizing the daring journey of a young geologist who dared to venture into the unknown.

John Bicknell Auden’s discovery of Auden Col was more than a geographical feat; it was a triumph of the human spirit. Through sheer determination and an unquenchable thirst for knowledge, he unveiled a gateway to one of the most remote and breathtaking corners of the Himalayas. To this day, Auden Col stands as both a physical landmark and a symbol of the courage and curiosity that inspire adventurers to push the boundaries of exploration.